It seems like ages since we left Kununurra .. went up to Wyndham for a look .. it's about 50km off the main route ..
nothing much to see .. fairly grotty town and couldn't get near the wharf area.
Headed towards Derby .. best part of 900 kms. The first half has some quite spectacular scenery .. rocky mountains
etc., then the terrain levels out a lot. Was surprised to find a Coles shop in Derby (at least with Coles and Woolworths one
is assured of a reasonable standard and variety of goods, (mainly food!). It is possible to get to the wharf area in Dalby as
it's now practically unused. Small vehicles can drive on the semi-circular wharf one end and off the other. The old cattle
yards and loading ramps are still in evidence. Pity to see the wharf unused and starting to fall apart with lack of
maintainence. Stayed 2 nights in a caravan park at Derby .. met up with a couple (Casper) we had met previously.
From Deby it's 220 km to Broome .. found that a very tourist orientated town with prices to match .. almost $20 for
fish and chips for 2 people. Paid $1-42 for diesel in town .. then happened to go to the wharf area for a look and found
diesel for $1-35 .. it pays to be in the know!! Caravan parks expensive and no other obvious spot to stay the night, we
headed back out of town to a gravel pit we had noted on the way in. It proved to be a good spot for an overnight stay as it
was more extensive than it appeared from the highway.
From Broome its about 600 km to Port Headland .. stayed a couple of free camp spots plus 2 nights at a caravan park
type thing at 80 mile beach .. was interesting to see the beach stretching away in the distance in each direction. Most
people are into fishing, but not us. There are a number of similar places along this coast .. properties with beachfronts
catering for tourists. Though it appears the W.A. Government Department, C.A.L.M. (appears similar to National Parks), is in
the process of "acquiring" a two km wide coastal strip along heaps of this coastline. No doubt, they figure they can manage
it better than existing arrangements. Of course, the end result will be "fees" for the few existing free sites and, no doubt,
increased charges where charges already exist.
At Port Headland we saw a large ship laden with iron ore leave .. had 4 tugs working to do the job. Looks like an
extremely busy port with other vessels loading at the same time. When the wind blows over these ships and in the direction
of the town, the iron ore dust is blown and coats the houses along the waterfront. Some were deserted and it must have been
such a problem that a new town is built quite some distance away. Woolworths are in that new town, though we note Port
Headland Post Office is in the old town near the wharf.
Met up with some "solo" motorhomers we had met near Darwin near the laundramat in the old town .. also a yougish
couple Sue knew in Mackay. She had met up with them just before we left on this trip and was aware they were going to travel
around Australia in a Toyota troop carrier. So, small world, once again!
They have decent size trains carrying the iron ore .. we were held up a level crossing and counted the wagons.
Train comprised 3 lead diesel locos, 109 wagons, 2 locos, 102 wagons, 2 locos, 209 wagons. We had some reasonable size
trains back in the Sarina area carrying coal, but these iron ore trains leave them for dead .. at least half as big again.
We were told the record amount of ore carried in one train is 110,000 tons .. which would probably be a full load for one
ship!!
Did shopping a refuelled then on to Karratha .. about 200 km .. some more shopping, fuel, gas and water.
Interestingly, with all the gas produced offshore here and sold overseas for a few cents a litre, had to pay $31 (about a
record) for 9kg of gas. Info was that it was possible to park overnight behind in an exceedingly large area behind a
roadhouse out on the highway. We had refuelled there and just mentioned, rather casually, that we would like to park the
night. "no way", said the man .. if I see anyone there I ring the council ranger and he comes out and moves you on. More
intrusion into our "so called, freedom" and all carefully designed to force travellers into their local caravan parks.
More and more travellers we speak to resent this and are saying, if practical, we move on. As a consequence of this,
we are now at a rest area overlooking a large pool of water about 30 km west of Karratha .. Miraee Pool. Its slightly
elevated and we have phone and TV .. first time for ages that we have had these in a rest area as most are a long way from
the towns. We stayed 3 nights and there was an average of 5 or 6 others also staying and avoiding the town.
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