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Well, we have had another extended period in the bush with no CDMA, thus e-mail, coverage.
From Darwin, we went to Richies (VK8RR) families shack at Dundee Beach. Its about 75km airline S.W. of Darwin, but
about double that by road .. last section is gravel. Interesting place with, I guess, a couple of thousand blocks sub-divided
and even stretching back a number of km from the beach front .. Sort of a fisherman's paradise .. if one is mad on fishing!
The family block backs onto a tidal creek inhabited with crockodiles. These critters are common in these parts .. one
of Richies family told me he had to warn tourists about swimming in the ocean .. something the locals certainly avoid. This
happened down near the one and only pub which is on the waterfront where there is a boat launching ramp.
While we there, the "troubles" were continuing in East Timor. Looking out to sea to the north west, from this section
of the coast, one realises it's not all that far across the ocean to Indonesia.
Both before and after our trip to Dundee Beach, we stayed 2 nights at a recently discovered free (including power,
showers, laundry) camping area behind the Noonamah hotel .. the new publican is developing area the for travellers. Info,
courtesy of Solos Group we met at CMCA "Topenders" do.
From Noonamah, we travelled the Arnham Highway into Kakadu National Park. There used to be fairly steep fee to enter
Kakadu .. we heard a story that visitor numbers were dropping off at an alarming rate, so the fee was removed a few years
ago. The deserted "entry gates" and associated housing are still obvious.
Stopped at the Alligator River and the "jumping crockodile cruises" .. they do boat and helicopter trips. We did the
boat trip upstream from the bridge. They entice the crocks to raise themselves up out of the water by dangling pieces of pork
from a bamboo pole and length of cord in front of their noses. The crocks are territorial and have been christened various
names by the tour guides. One certainly gets a close up view of the monsters. The largest one we saw is supposed to be 6.2m
(that's about 20 feet) long. Stayed that night parked near the helio pad.
Looking at the map, and particularly out along the coastline to north, revealed that a lot of the old English names
given to prominent features (no doubt by the old explorers) had been changed to Aboriginal Names. This practice seems
fairly common in a lot of these parts of the world.
Further east at the South Alligator River we stopped for lunch at the signed boat ramp. Adjoining that, there is a
massive sealed parking/picnic area. However, there is the dreaded "no camping" sign erected. We noted a few of these
extremely large boat ramp parking areas in the Territory, grossly under utilised (like we were the only ones there), but with
"no camping" signs! Bureaurauchy at its best!
We continued on as far as it's legal .. to Oenpelli and the Border store on the East Alligator River. The river forms
the border of Arnham Land. Us white fellas need a permit to travel into Arnham (black fella) land. This costs money and
apparently only a very limited number are issued at the one time. By the way, most people do not realise that aboriginal
land comprises 20 percent of the total area of the country .. take a look on a map.
From there it is back to Jabiru .. quite a frontier town we thought, with the Uranium mine close by. We did observe
some aboriginal families getting around in modern, expensive 4 wheel drive vehicles. The benefits of royalties from mining!
Did a little shopping and business with the post office and it was time to start on the Kakadu Highway towards Pine Creek.
Stayed at a few free camping sites we managed to suss out. There are others with rangers and thus fees attached.
These were Malabanjanjdju, Jim Jim Billabong, then across the Mary River and on to the Harriet Creek camp spot. I was
particularly interested in this Pine Creek end as, about 45 years ago, brother in law Vic, his brother Ron and myself tried
driving out (in the wet season) along this road towards Arnham land. We only got part way to the Mary River as the road was
boggy and creek crossings deep with water. I think the area where we turned around could have been in the vicinity of Harriet
Creek refereed to above. A lot of the road has been rebuilt with old sections visible running parallel to the now existing
road. In fact, that Harriet Creek camp spot was owes its existence to a section of the old road.
Just before the junction with the Stuart Highway and Pine Creek, is Pussycat Flat .. the old Pine Creek race track.
It is now a social club and it is possible to camp there overnight for small fee. I remembered Bill and Mary, who bought our
property at Yukan had managed a property just out of Pine Creek. Speaking with them on the phone revealed that Bill had
actually been the President of that very race club back in its hey day.
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